Shoe with elastic throat



March 2-6, 1940. I OLIVA 2,195,320

' SHOE WITH ELASTIC THROAT 7 Filed July 20, 1938 2 Sheets-Sheet 1 2? 6'35 INVENTOR Bra no fl/z'ud ATTORNEY March 26, 1940. B. oLlvA SHOE WITHELASTIC THROAT 2 Sheets-Sheet 2 Filed July 20, 1938 INVENTOR .3111 110 0be ATTORN EY Patented Mar. :26, v

AJSIfIdl HRiM- f {Bruno rQliva St, Albanst N. :Y,

4 ladie s n l ek t ws th t-en e se a r l em t ofshoes of the pump typeis a per gfiectfit coupled wi a el anc p ime i h-calls iqr thelt .7

marginal edge of the sh o exactly conform to land snugly 'hyg the c 'onte "throat of a emp t ar -t wn e e s e a s 9 eesee ii net 21 .1 12 e valso be c'apableo tion proceeds and will be set for in the appendedclaims. 7 Q

My mi/enemas illustrated by way. of example I in the accompanyingdrawingsy-m vvhi'ch:

f 4 5 Fig; 1 "s a vietv iii perspective of a'pilmp ern-f hodyi ngfmyinvention;

91 lei viwtbii- -upbp u in Fig.1; m nus the v mp:

i i th iumps p Fi -I3 i a p fhpwein v v r t anv end View in'elevation ofthe same;

- Fig. 6 is afragn entarv iilan view inf-an en mate sca f so wai em $1 v'teppf'the' toot,

' hen-that I will presently describe.'* I

names '29 sq joined "ofelastic'rnaterial 3|.

v a yi of thfrev'erse side thereof; ,5 Fi 1. fmgme ta' l 2 f? a wi np aged 59%1 9 t e? h ee pertiofl f th u e Fig.7 is a. -iragnientary,plan,viewflof the upper used in the pump" shown in Fig. 1 including jthe vvar ripj; 'p .i :-.;v 4 I I t Fig. 8 i'sIa top plianlview of the lupperused for 1 ln algingsa pjir np similarto thatshown in Fig. '1,;Whichvth' varnp isin one ,piece vwith. the body 1 Fig; is a plan viewo'fltherreverse .sidejther of, andpq f l l .lO' is va iragnr er tarlongitudinal' s'ectionit in an enlarged scale through line .pl fllllvo'fFig. -7,

I .fi f dw rig the construction of the throat.

. Referring to g.4 it'vvill b seen that the shoe c rises the" al heel 29,; the sole Z! and 31. and jyamp portion 23 sewed to thejquartqr-portionfof the ,up per'at 24. The upper has atq fm gi al ed e,25 wh ch i v y W1 t I si a sma be di r p pin 3 h is p tainad b sew ng at e lf e 62 "5 t the enter s u rfaceqf the upper and n i am n the' deeains h i' V ,n rstrtqhah ails dto ,ed e nefi ished if tfie by v iinte s ct twe n: t jupper and'the linin 1, 25

I 'idbading' at the front stopsllshort "of the "throatftvhich'throa 2formed from a separate piece of Blast ni aterial, preferably elasticleatherfwhich'is appliedto the upper th'er naner irin to Figs. to 5 itwin beseen thatj the quarter" portion ,of the 'upper is composed of twoat the frontend by a piece In t e dravvings, Figs. 3and 6,'said piece of.35 I elastic'material is showna's being composed of a I layer-32 ofthln and therefore stretchahlel'eather I aridanbtherlilayer 33 ofelastic fabric, preferably a" fabric 'offthe type Where the Weftis'composed i .140 1 of inelastic threads so that thefabricisstrtatchable only in the direction of the vvveft that isin .the presentcase, transversely ofthe shoe;

entirely of" elastic threads and the warp entirely Said elastic piece 3!is somewhatwider from 3 "side to s ide -than the distance separating thefront end'portions 34 3 f the two halves 2' 9, 36.

Said end p0rtionsq34, 35 are relatively narrow and ClllYQd towards thefront so as to produce the twoc ed ends of the throat shownvin'li'ig.1.' 1'

e sitic piece 3,! is also wider in a frontfil) I t rear -d action than,the extreme (and edges 36,

5,355 of the quarter. portion v two-halves 2S ware placed sideby-side'at the-proper distance from each er the piece @I isplaced at thefront end along'the edge of the inner-surface of front p rtions 34, '35.

The' marginal edge portions of said piece 3| adjoining the end edgeportions 36, 31 will then be stitched thereto as shown at 38,39 in Figs.5

and6, and the rear portion 3| of said piece. 3|"

isi'left loose with pect to" the inner edges of I O tio'ns 34, 35. 4 r

The contour of the thus completed front edge of the quarter portion ofthe upper is adapted to edge of: the vamp which is to be stitchedthereto along the line 24, as will be understood, soa"s to form thecompleted uppershown in Fig. 7.:

side marginal edges will overlap a small'width overlap the-front edge ofthe quarter portion of .iri 'Fig. 4. A

In'order to form thethroatthe elastic .piece 3| the upper so that it maybe stitched theret.o,=the*' central portion of thev rear edge of thevamp being indicated by the dot anddash'line ,a -a in is inwardly foldedalong the transverse line b-b shown inF-ig. 4, said line connecting theinner ends of the stitching lines 3B, 39.' said-line Z2-Z) willtherefore define folded-edge 49 of the throat, said edge 40 being incontinuation of and completing the marginal edge portion of the shoe;

Referring to Fig. 10. it'will be seenthat the inwardly folded throatportion fil, of pieces! is wide enough in a front to rear direction tocause its rear edge 3| to reach below the duterfront edge of piece 3|,when said portion 3|. is folded. The lining 4| and if desired also aninter mediate fleece doubler 42 are applied against the 'rear surface ofthe ,upper and. secured byStitClling thereto as indicated at 43, thestitching going tivelynarrow folded strip of double thicknessfof elasticmaterial joining the two end edgesj36 31 of said) pieces 29, 30,saidstrip forming an.in-

tegralpart of the general outline of theshoe and close fitting shoe.

being nearlyindistinguishable in :appearanc from the throat of anordinary shoe.

However, the elasticity of the material employed in thus producing the.throat will cause there is no sharp edge hugging and cutting into theinstep. The result is .a very comfortable yet Furthermore the foldededge of said throat greatly enhances thelfinished ap pearance of theshoe because no raw or sharp edges are'e'xposed.

It will of course be understood that the layer although for producingthe appearance of a fin ished shoe of graceful design andappearanceleather islto be preferred. i 7 3 My invention can alsobeapplied in connection with shoes in which the vamp is formed integralxas beingui portion 41 of the upper, the front end of the two 5 sides ofsaid marginal, portion being slightly .curved'inwardly as shown at 48,49' in order to eventually provide a curved juncture between the ends ofthe top marginal portion and the throat,

and'then the cutextends a certain distance'fop 10 wardlyas shown'at50,5|indove-tailed arrange- I, i I ment, the forward ends of said portions50, 5| substantially register with the contour of the rear attl'iefrontishown at- 52.

The elastic piece 3|, is then applied against the 15 s rear 's'urface ofthe upper at the front end of the The inner edge of the vamp. willnaturally...

marginal edge causing the edges of the front partof said elastic, piecetooverlap to a certain extent'cor'responding parts of v the edges of thecut 48,49, 50, 5|, .52;

' j Said ,elasticfpiece then. stitched to the ,ing tolthe 1i fe'b shownin Figs. 4 and 6.1 Said folded portion is then stitched or cemented inplace between the upper andthe lining, as prejviously eXplaine'd, thusforming anelastic throat 7 similar tothatishown' atfn in Fig. 1 the edgeof 35 Whichwill beinjexact alignment with and will form a continuationof the side edgesgof the top marginal edgeproducedbybm 41. The topmarginal edge may be finished if desired'by applying a binding 'Or tapeto it in order to form thesmall 4o beading or piping around theedge inthe customary manner, as previouslyexplained. this 'latter constructionthe elastic throat will appear. as a relatively narrow strip extendingtransversely between lines 50 and 5l, its ap- "4'5 showninFigflL'f 1 o vIt.:wil1 be understoodby those sltilled in the art. that. many specificvdetails relating to the art of making-shoes generally, may vary fromfiO:pearance beingfsubstantially the "same as that 'those shownanddesoribed without affecting the scope. of invention and withoutdeparting from the inventive idea.

. H The drawings should, thereforegbe' understood ntended for'.illustrative purposes only and not limiting sense.

I, accordinglmreserve the right .to carry myinvention intowpractice inall those ways. andmanners which may enter,.fairly, intothe scope .of...the, appended-claims.- i I v 60 I claim: l ,3 'A-shoeof the pump typecomprising. an upper having an unyielding taped edgeextendingrearwa-rdly from a point at ,each side of the;- throat, said upper beingcut-frontwardly agrelae tivelyshort distance;from each of said points soas to form a relatively narrow transverse gap ahead' of anwimaginaryline joining the said two points, and a folded piece of. flexibleelastic ma- (-terial interposed between and joining the edges 70 formedby said frontwardly directed cuts so. as

to fill said ,gap;, the folded edge portion of said ,piece.-extending.betweenthe said two points'and having it's-surface exposedat both thefrontand rear;to allow full play to its elastic properties,76

the folded edge of said portion preventing the throat from cutting intothe instep, and providing an unbroken Continuity ofthe top marginal edgeof the throat, interrupted by said gap.

2. A shoe of the pump type comprising an up-.

verse gap ahead of an imaginaryline joining the said two points, saidgap having a substantially uniform depth, and-a folded piece of flexibleelastic material interposed between and joining the edges formed by saidfrontwardly directed cuts so as to fill said gap, the folded edgeportion of said piece extending between the said two points and havingits surface exposed'at boththe front and rear to allow full play to itselastic properties, the folded edge of said portion preventing thethroat from cutting into the instep, and providing an unbrokencontinuity of the top marginal edge of "the throat, interrupted by said10 BRUNO OLIVA.

